Why is it that all too often larger hotels who require such standards as a jacket and tie at dinner and - wait for it - at tea dances also, do not follow through with the goods expected of them. Is it because people will go and stay there anyway? The restaurant at the Grand is not a delightful place to be if it's the food you have in mind. The kindest word that springs to mind is 'disappointing', though I have heard politicians who stayed there uttering stronger sentiments as they headed for the delights of One Paston Place, the Black Chapati and other points east and west. No amount of fancy napery and splendour can offset food that is not up to the same high standards, yet some places seem powerless to do anything about it.