This imposing 13th century inn, built in the reign of King John I, originally formed part of a monastery, and has retained its antiquity well through the centuries. Well favoured by Egon Ronay's 2006 Guide, and Les Routiers, it was taken over in 2004 by Richard and Sherry Martin and is now visibly thriving under their ownership.

Head Chef Steve Hogben-Lambert makes good use of the locally caught fresh fish and his a la carte menu pays more than a passing tribute to its quality. Starters might consist of wild risotto of brown shrimp, made with cockles and razor clam with sorrel and double cream, a Lagavulin cured wild salmon with tiger tail prawns served with dill and mustard sauce or smoked Dungeness eel with fresh horseradish mousse and oak smoked sprats. A lobster bisque has all the piquancy that one expects in that fine but simple dish, and foie gras with port and rosemary jelly is served with toasted brioche and a shot glass of Chapel Down Nectar.

Main courses are classified as runners or swimmers, and amongst the former expect to meet roasted Romney Marsh lamb rump, free range pork and parsley bangers served with herbed mash and three onion gravy, char grilled best end of English veal cop, supreme of local free range chicken wrapped in air-dried ham and served with fondant potato, roasted Jerusalem artichoke and tarragon sauce.

Wild mushroom risotto is the real thing, with oyster, chestnut, Portobello and shitake mushrooms. Amongst the swimmers are beer battered haddock, cod and whiting cooked in a light batter of wheat beer, cumin and poppy seed, served with hand-cut chips and mint and pea puree, a very fleshy Whitstable seafood chowder, described as an ensemble of locally caught fish with saffron potatoes and chive, or a whole roasted line-caught local Gurnard with a confit of sweet cherry tomatoes and new potatoes.

Make sure not to miss enjoying the fascinating range of artisan-produced breads produced by Paul Hollywood, now resident locally after periods as Head Baker at Cliveden and The Dorchester.

A relatively brief but punchy wine list has been cleverly chosen to embrace quality and all tastes, with a welcome inclusion from Chapel Down, mainly whites but a 2003 Pinot Noir red, and a sparkling Pinot Brut deriving from Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc.

The Dog Inn is a place for those who relish the good things of life in an atmosphere that is both restful and welcoming. Learn more from a quick click on their excellent Website, including details of arrangements for licensed weddings.