For as long as men and women of good will have gathered together to share their highs as well as their lows, the Drunken Duck, known to its intimates as the Mucky Duck, has provided shelter, warmth, company and drink for all those who pass. As a young rock climber I knew it well - a recent visit confirmed its unchanging charms, except that it now brews its own beers in The Barngates Brewery, at the Inn. So popular have they become that they now enjoy a much expanded audience. Whilst good homely fare for climbers still features, the dining room has expanded in keeping with today's expectations and prosperity. Head Chef, Nick Foster, has a clutch of awards that would make the average Russian General's military tunic look positively arid, with the result that the 40 covers are eagerly sought after and it pays to book.

A modern approach to a traditional outlook reveals starters of pigeon breast, marinated with liquorice on agen prune and parmesan risotto, a smoked Cumbrian mackerel fillet with potato and green mustard salad or a mouthwatering risotto made from lobster, langoustine and truffle with a black fish egg beurre blanc. The theme continues with fillet of venison marinated in cocoa and served on a chestnut polenta with caramelised figs and espresso pistachio nuts, or a baked red snapper with fig, lemon and vanilla confit served on sauté spinach and red peppers. Local lamb and beef also feature regularly on the menu. For puddings one turns with an air of ever so slightly bored certainty to the menu expecting to see yet another version of sticky toffee pudding, but no! Instead there is a wonderful dish of roasted figs in port with goat's cheese ice cream and oatmeal tuilles or, even more compellingly a melting dark chocolate and cherry pudding with white chocolate ice cream. House wine is £9.50 and a competent wine list meets all eventualities. Service is as cheerful as the décor is ageless and the stunning views will have you sitting outside over your coffee in the glowing dusk of a summer's evening.