Twenty minutes from the centre of York, the Durham Ox provides a country setting for good food in very traditional surroundings. The Sunday rib of roast Yorkshire beef and pudding is traditional and renowned. However, for those tiring of such majestic food there could be a starter of spinach frittata with four cheese and herb salsa, followed by pan-fried fillet of venison rolled in hazelnuts with celeriac puree, wild mushrooms and a redcurrant sauce.

To finish I would finally yield to local prejudice and order a substantial piece of the blessed Pudding well covered with salty butter and brown sugar, as a result of which I shall probably be blackballed, but never mind, what a way to go. An eclectic wine list with several versions of house from £10.95 to some rare beauties at around £250 a bottle, which I take to mean 'negotiable'. Not surprising therefore that in 2004 it fell to the Durham Ox to nominate the winner of the Restaurant Wine Supplier of the Year, out of a field of 60, as Playford Ros of North Yorkshire.