An exterior inspection of The Felin Fach Griffin reveals a gaunt building that has done service as country pub and hill farm; but once inside pause to admire the stylish conversion that has cleverly retained the original plot, providing the setting for some excellent 2 AA Rosette cooking, and comfort overall.

There is a leaning towards local and organic produce and increasingly from the kitchen garden, resulting in dishes of impressive authenticity. The Griffin harbours a refreshing tendency to regard lunch as just as important a meal as supper and the value for money throughout is remarkable. Starters include a delicious cream of leek and potato soup, followed by a grain-fed rib-eye of beef.

A plate of wild venison with butternut squash with roasted carrots and elderberries on the side is comfort food personified, so is a wild halibut fillet, with young summer vegetables and lemon butter as a partner. Sunday lunch is a well celebrated event, with a rib of local Welsh beef from Paddy Sweeney, the local butcher, as the centrepiece.