British it says and you almost expect to see "and proud of it" to follow, so much is this the quintessential English pub. There's an incredible bustle on at any time but Sunday lunch is the time for connoisseurs of that sort of thing. The last time we were there a helicopter stopped by in the field behind the pub and the occupants tumbled out to join in the fun. The whole place just exudes 'country pub' and its location overlooking Rutland Water lends to the magic.

A busy kitchen serves meals that are in a different class from many pubs, full of interest, ably prepared and with an élan that distinguishes them from the norm. Start with mussel and bacon ragout in a filo basket topped with brie and served on a herb salad, or a tagliatelle of artichokes, wild mushrooms and flagoulet beans in a pesto cream. For mains a venison loin in a pepper and blackcurrant sauce comes sat within a beetroot and potato nest, and the seared smoked salmon, served on a white wine and chive risotto and topped off with a poached egg was a dish to be cherished. Their Cajun spiced fries are pretty tempting too.

An extensively travelled wine list covers most of the recognised wine producing countries and house wine at £10.95 is eminently drinkable. The staff, as you might by this time expect, are a jolly crew who combine humour with courtesy and razor sharp efficiency.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt