Stockbridge, reputed to be the Holy Grail of those who fish on god's own river, the Test, harbours a number of other distractions amongst which The Greyhound is by no means the least. However, one has the distinct feeling that the level of gastronomy is pitched more towards the informal London weekend crowd than your humble disciples of Isaac Walton. Not that there is anything intrinsically wrong with that, as many a fisherman would testify. The local produce is called well into play and a signature dish is the starter of fishcake, graced with a poached egg and chive beurre blanc. The beef is well regarded and a favoured version comes with seared foie gras, herbed pomme puree and a port and lentil jus.

It is good to see The Greyhound restored to some sort of glory, though sad that it has not integrated more into the community. But business is business and there is little doubt that it has set its own sights and is keeping them happy. The wine list represents clear thinking on somebody's part, with some pretty scary prices at the top end coupled with some relief, mainly from South America. The Greyhound is proud of its modest sherry collection, all at under £3 a glass.