Arguably - I admit - Sussex is the most English of counties, and it is places like The Griffin Inn that help reinforce that view. Looking out towards Sheffield Park over one of the best views in Sussex, this is truly a place for all seasons, with large gardens, a wonderful range of visits to be made in the area, and a warm welcome when the time comes for refreshment at The Griffin. You can stay there too.

Amongst the starters look for Sicilian sardines with sultanas, pine nuts and sweet and sour onions, comfit of duck spring rolls with spiced plum sauce, or a wild garlic soup with parmesan routes.

Morocco meets Sussex with roast rump of lamb, cous cous, rosemary and anchovy dressing. The wonderfully under-rated mackerel, abhorred by people like my father in law who dismissed it as the scavenger of the seas (what fish isn't?), comes in grilled fillets form with salsa verde, crushed new potatoes and watercress, and for the veggies in our midst a frittata of wood roasted vegetables and smoked mozzarella makes wholesome eating. Carnivores may well head for the chargrilled rib-eye Somerset beef steak with homemade chips, red onion confit and mustard leaves.

For puddings look no further than the rhubarb and orange crème brûlée - on second thoughts, do look further, even if only to the white chocolate and rum bread and butter pudding, a real knockout of a re-take on an old favourite. Amongst the cheeses expect to find Berkswell hard ewe's milk, Sharphams, and Barkham chase blue. And if you are really pushing the boat out order up a bottle of Offley Boa Vista 1963 vintage port. No, sorry, not by the glass.

Cheerful service, a well-travelled wine list and a fine range of beers all help to complete the pleasure.