Restaurant at The Halfway Bridge Inn

One of those delightful sturdily built Sussex pubs that suddenly materialise round a bend in the road, demanding attention, and more often that not receiving it. This one has taken full advantage of the move towards dine and sleep, with luxurious suites and bedrooms that would charm most people out of any desire to move one inch further.

So whilst the 17th century still prevails it does so with deference to time moving on, most certainly as far as the restaurant is concerned, where a combination of the best of the London markets and sound local produce blend by means of an exciting menu.

Amongst the starters expect to finds sautéed pigeon breasts, smoked haddock with spinach and poached egg, or herb crusted sardines. West Sussex rack of lamb competes with grilled whole lemon sole or roasted quail, but my money goes on the homemade steak and kidney suet pudding with creamed potatoes and braised cabbage.

The desserts offer the customary range of temptations, including a simple baked rice pudding much enlivened by butterscotch sauce, which makes in an interesting variant on the customary raspberry jam, but keep an eye open also for the baked Camembert served with homemade sultana and almond bread, with red onion chutney. En passant they recommend a dessert wine from Sicily, Moscato de Pantellaria, which is seductive in the extreme.

A good wine list, excellent service and the distinct feeling that they are out to please for all the right reasons makes this a place not to miss.