Restaurant at The Hoste Arms

North Norfolk is not an area by any means devoid of genuine quality places in which to eat but, as ever, there are graduations. Burnham Market has it all, either at this first rate 17th century coaching inn, or in the delis and wine emporia that closely surround it, exuding an atmosphere of a community in which proper food and hospitality reigns supreme.

One of the principal attractions of the Hoste Arms is its ability to present a number of different styles under one roof in a way that allows them to complement each other, without detracting from the essentially historic quality of the original building 

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the 36 exotic bedrooms where the decorative skills of Jeanne Whittome, wife of proprietor Paul, have been given full rein with the evident aim to ensure that guests never want to leave. Amidst the splendour of four posters, family bedrooms, a penthouse, and junior suites no detail has been overlooked and comfort is king. There are some very attractive midweek breaks available throughout the year.

The waters off Norfolk's coastline produce some of the finest seafood in Britain, nor does the Hoste neglect the great estates that are within easy reach.  With such a plenitude of locally sourced ingredients it is hardly surprising that the menu reflects a real chef's delight. Starters and light meals join forces to offer Norfolk Coast lobster and morel mushroom cocktail, a quick flutter abroad produces a wonderful oriental beef broth delightfully called Bangkok soup. They have a way too with the local Brancaster oysters, which come hot, or natural and cold, with other variations on both temperatures, or stray into the salads with a dressed Cromer crab.

A legendary figure in the Norfolk food chain is Arthur Howell, butcher and grazier, who has a shop in the village. For two people looking to share a real treat I suggest his 21 day dry aged New York rib steak with hand cut chips. A pigeon course will almost certainly have started life within the leafy glades of nearby Holkham Park.

Fillet of Norfolk pork is served with chilli, ginger and star anise, or a deliciously fresh lemon roasted fillet of cod comes with a brown shrimp and tarragon risotto. The Hoste chowder is a meal in itself, with mixed seafood and cockle and horseradish. For those of us who are dragged to the vegetable dishes by our consciences, they do wonderful things with their veg that enable you to actually enjoy them toasted broccoli and almonds, spinach that has been skilfully creamed, and French beans with a tomato ragout, never mind the superb hand cut chips.

Puddings range from praline and milk chocolate fondant, through banana tarte tatin, to a caramel parfait with vanilla cream. And yes, the savoury of Edwardian tables is there for we rare breed of eccentrics, a Welsh rarebit parma ham and poached egg. Is there anything they haven't thought of to deliver the perfect meal?

The dining room at the Hoste is a delight, with service and surrounds well up to the mark. The needs of a well travelled clientele are looked after by Sommelier David Prior, with some commendable wines by the glass, and if white wine is on your agenda be sure to try the Macon Quintaine 2002, an outstanding, rich Chardonnay, for memorable drinking. There are many other appealing options on a list that relentlessly extracts the best regardless of any lingering fussiness about countries of origin.

The Hoste Arms may describe itself as an Inn, and in the best sense it is. In the same sense it is also an institution, the way inns should be, this one very much the cosseted child of an inspired couple. Learn more about it through their Website and then book yourselves a reservation to Elysium, North Norfolk style.