Restaurant at The Hoste Arms

North Norfolk is not an area by any means devoid of genuine quality places in which to eat but, as ever, there are graduations. Burnham Market has it all, either at this first rate 17th century coaching inn, or in the delis and wine emporia that closely surround it, exuding an atmosphere of a community in which proper food and hospitality reigns supreme.

One of the principal attractions of the Hoste Arms is its ability to present a number of different styles under one roof in a way that allows them to complement each other, without detracting from the essentially historic quality of the original building.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the 36 exotic bedrooms where the decorative skills of Jeanne Whittome, wife of proprietor Paul, have been given full rein with the evident aim to ensure that guests never want to leave. Amidst the splendour of four posters, family bedrooms, a penthouse, and junior suites no detail has been overlooked and comfort is king. There are some very attractive midweek breaks available throughout the year.

The waters of Norfolk's coastline produce some of the finest seafood in Britain, but the Hoste does not neglect the great estates that are also within easy reach. With such a plenitude of locally sourced ingredients it is hardly surprising that the menu reflects a real chef's delight. Starters and light meals join forces to offer roasted breast of local pigeon, pear and star anise chutney, toasted brioche and black pepper ice-cream, a quick flutter abroad produces a wonderful oriental Thai fish broth with rice noodles and king prawns. They have a way too with the local Brancaster oysters, which come hot, or natural and cold, with other variations on both temperatures, or stray into the salads with a dressed Cromer crab.

A legendary figure in the Norfolk food chain is Arthur Howell, butcher and grazier, who has a shop in the village. For two people looking to share a real treat, his 21 day dry aged New York rib steak with hand cut chips is recommended. Herb rolled pork tenderloin is served with dauphinoise potato, mange tout and sautéed wild mushrooms, or breast of Gressingham duck comes with creamed celeriac, confit cabbage, port shallots and celeriac crisps.

For those of us who are dragged to the vegetarian dishes by our consciences, they do wonderful things with their vegetables that enable you to actually enjoy them; there are oriental vegetable spring rolls with chilli rice noodles, bok choi and chilli sauce, never mind the superb hand cut chips. Puddings range from white chocolate fondue with mixed fruit skewers and chocolate cookies, through raspberry bavarois, to a sticky toffee pudding.

The dining room at the Hoste is a delight, with service and surrounds well up to the mark. The needs of a well travelled clientele are looked after by their knowledgeable sommelier, with some commendable wines by the glass, and if white wine is on your agenda be sure to try the Stellenbosch, a rich mixture of vanilla and citrus characters. There are many other appealing options on a list that relentlessly extracts the best regardless of any lingering fussiness about countries of origin.

The Hoste Arms may describe itself as an Inn, and in the best sense it is. In the same sense it is also an institution, the way inns should be, this one very much the cosseted child of an inspired couple. Learn more about it through their Website and then book yourselves a reservation to Elysium, North Norfolk style.