The Hunting Lodge must have some of the finest panelling in these parts. I mention this merely because whilst we are here to discuss the cuisine, even the best of its kind is enhanced by some good background. The menu is certainly not short on choices amongst which, for starters are black pudding (Jerry Howarth's gold medal award-winning variety) served with salad and horseradish dip, an item rather sinisterly called loaded skins, the potato variety served with a light salad and choice of fillings from ham and cheese or mushrooms and Stilton, or cod and prawn fishcake with lemon grass, ginger and oriental spices, served with a chilli relish.

Helpings are not exactly minute so it is probably a good idea to pace yourself, particularly in the area of main courses where further variety is well to the fore with a great range of grills, not least of which, throwing to the winds advice just given, is the Hunter's Mighty Grill, a challenging and gargantuan affair, full details of which would take up the rest of this appraisal. Other options are poached sole, boozy bullock pie, and chicken Marilyn Monroe which, whilst it leaves a few options, comes from the front of the bird, and sausage and mash with two different varieties of the noble banger on the customary tattie bed with rich gravy.

In general one has the feeling that the menu is compiled by someone with the good things of life in mind and a close feeling for his clientele. A breezy list of puddings includes What a Waffle, perhaps to keep a certain brand of politician at bay.

Sunday lunch is well and truly celebrated, with plenty of alternatives round the traditional roast, a day when one can take particular advantage of the wine list, a handsome version with nothing much over £20 and plenty by the glass.