The Kings Arm, a rather resplendent Gloucestershire pub with rooms, is one of those wonderful survivals, some 500 years old, mullioned windows, welcoming interior, particularly now that it has been given a good shake-up and decorated in a way which encourages thoughts of long lunches, lazy afternoons and general indulgence.

The result is that people now flock to their doors to enjoy dishes that certainly qualify under the modern European banner but are sufficiently recognisable as to entice and please as any other comfort food. A squid, lime and coriander salad competed well with the crab salad and celeriac remoulade though some might wish they had settled for the duck confit with baked figs. Portions are generous, prices are well adjusted to the part of the world, which takes us to the main courses where, for generous, read enormous. Seriously, beware because the puddings are worthwhile and it would be a shame to have become hors de combat by the time you reached that point.

For those who like their lamb shank, this is undoubtedly the place to be. It's all the things that a successful lamb shank should be, even if you are tempted by the Gloucester Old Spot pork or the grilled wild seatrout. Those of you who have braved the delights of a certain theme park in the Midlands will be familiar, if not actually intimate with the gut-wrenching Nemesis - well, at Stow-on-the-Wold they do it in chocolate form. Which has the greater effect is anybody's guess, but if in doubt play safe and settle for the grilled figs with Greek yoghurt.

Service is commendable, and a sensible wine list completes the pleasure.