A very splendid mock half-timbered hotel set in 50 acres of prime countryside, three of which are occupied by the lake that gives the hotel its name. From the moment you navigate the drive you feel the mantle of the slightly formal country house around you, yet the ambience is comfortable and relaxed. This is a house set to impress but not to overpower, with miles of expensive fabrics, squashy sofas and furniture that is easy on the eye.

Easy on the palate is the extensive menu, served with more formality in a room that is the very epitome of monied class. A typical meal might start with blackened fillet of red mullet on a croute of cornbread, with tomato and avocado salsa, blessed with a chilli and lime dressing. The fillet of Welsh beef studded with roasted garlic, on black olive linguini, with aubergine caviar, tomato and shallot fondue and coriander pesto for many would be almost irresistible, though the salmon 'en trois facon' with a change of starter could be a close second.

Tucked in amongst the temptations the green apple terrine with a cinnamon sauce and yoghurt ice cream is an unusual item that merits investigation. For some the piece de resistance might be the wine list, in itself sufficient justification for a visit to this haven of taste and luxury. There are over 350 bins, with the Old World very thoroughly represented. All five Bordeaux Premier Crus Classes are there, together with many of the finest Burgundian Grand Cru vineyards. Carefully chosen New World wines also feature, with others from the Lebanon attracting increasing interest.