Restaurant at The Lasswade Country House Hotel, The

The decline and rise of the British country house reflects in some ways the changing social patterns that have developed in these sceptred isles over the last few decades. As the desire to shake off urban nastiness grows, people look to the outstanding countryside around them, with a shrug buy some good waterproof clothing and set off to enjoy their own heritage.

Lasswade was built in 1904, the start of the Edwardian heyday, and the new wave, said to be Victorians who could chill out, set about doing just that. The house is handsome, spacious and elegant and commands vast views across mid Wales, where the red kites circle. Edwardians had good heads for entertaining and at Lasswade that virtue has been carried forward into the next century by its owners, Roger and Emma Stevens who regard their customers as house guests who should be cosseted.

Their success in so doing is reflected in numerous awards, including UK Winners for the 'Sustain Food Challenge', featured in the Good Food Guide from 2004 and the Hotel and Michelin Guide, a 2nd AA rosette for fine dining, and an upgrade to 4 star guest accommodation. They have also earned many awards for their efforts in the Environmentally friendly movement.

Roger Stevens is to be found leading the brigade in the kitchens. A three course dinner will in all probability have had its genesis through a slow cooking process before being served in an unhurried and relaxed fashion to people who wish to dine in a laid back style without making any concessions away from the smart/casual dress code.

Free range and organic produce is used wherever possible via an ever changing menu. A typical meal might consist of homemade smoked haddock fishcakes, followed by a rack of herb crusted local mountain lamb, partnered by noisettes of Elan Valley mutton. To finish, well, what about a sauté of hedgerow fruits with elderflower wine in a filo basket accompanied with organic crème fraiche?

Not so far across the hills is Shrewsbury, Shropshire's ancient capital and home to Tanners, the much admired wine merchants who can be numbered in the top half dozen in UK. So to find that Tanners have stocked the cellars at Lasswade is a further encouragement to taste the fruits of this extraordinary and well run country home.

Every so often the pace is upped a notch or two and such events as the Welsh Language Experience, Tea tasting and participation in a National Cheese Week are held at Lasswade; details are always available from the Hotel. Should you be taking the dog to share the enjoyment of your walks, no problem, and the canine friend(s) will be accommodated in their own dogtel.

A guest book records the feelings of a succession of guest who have left Lasswade with memories of affection and enjoyment. "We looked for a relaxing weekend, with good food and wines. We found Wales's best kept secret. Thank you for making us so welcome", seems to say it all.

Their Website will tell you more.