The decline and rise of the British country house reflects in some ways the changing social patterns that have developed in these sceptred isles over the last few decades. As the desire to shake off urban nastiness grows, people look to the outstanding countryside around them, with a shrug buy some good waterproof clothing and set off to enjoy their own heritage.

Lasswade was built in 1904, the start of the Edwardian heyday, and the new wave, said to be Victorians who could chill out, set about doing just that. The house is handsome, spacious and elegant and commands vast views across mid Wales, where the red kites circle. Edwardians had good heads for entertaining and at Lasswade that virtue has been carried forward into the next century by its owners, Roger and Emma Stevens who regard their customers as house guests who should be cosseted.

Their success in so doing is reflected in numerous awards, including UK Winners for the 'Sustain Food Challenge', featured in the Good Food Guide from 2004 and the Hotel and Michelin Guide, a 2nd AA rosette for fine dining, and an upgrade to 4 star guest accommodation. They have also earned many awards for their efforts in the Environmentally friendly movement.

Roger Stevens is to be found leading the brigade in the kitchens. A three course dinner will in all probability have had its genesis through a slow cooking process before being served in an unhurried and relaxed fashion to people who wish to dine in a laid back style without making any concessions away from the smart/casual dress code.