Voted by The Sunday Times as the best new seaside hotel is not such a bad way to start out on a new venture. Run by Richard Young, formerly general manager of Olga Polizzi's Tresanton Hotel in St Mawes, and his wife Sheryl, the Lugger in many ways is representative of the new Cornwall, with its burgeoning prosperity based on fresh attractions such as the Eden Project.

The 17th century hotel, formerly a haunt of smugglers, enjoys fine views and has been completely refurbished to a standard which commands prices that are not cheap. Head Chef Franz Hornegger fashions his menus on the style of Anton Mosimann, using a daily-changing four-course menu, with an emphasis on fish. Warm Duchy oysters with champagne sauce and caviar could make a challenging start to dinner. When in Rome . . so it would have to be the steamed symphony of seafood with saffron and asparagus, rounded off with an almond and pear flan blessed with Cornish cream.

The well-travelled wine list is growing steadily and currently stands at around 120 bins. House wine is good quality, starting at £16.50 and also available by the glass. Allow £35 a head plus service and wine. Without doubt this is a place to watch.