Restaurant at The Macdonald Bear Hotel

Nigel (21 August 2002)

The Bear Hotel in Woodstock is a beautiful, 13th century coaching inn, situated within a couple of hundred metres of the gates of Blenheim Palace. The hotel retains its character and charm. The decor is finely-judged olde-worlde. Exposed beams, open fires and dimly (but warmly) lit dining areas manage to be comforting, quaint an opulent all at once.

If only the food lived up to the setting. It's not that it's terrible; it's just not that good. Ingredients are of excellent quality, but cooked without much subtlety, and without the respect that they deserve. The food is even occasionally overcooked - which unforgivable at this level and price.

The chef seems to try too hard to justify the high price tag, smothering everything with rich sauces or butter or olive oil. Dishes that should be left simple come with needless and distracting additions (is there really any need to serve duck breast and confit together?).

So the Bear: not as good as it thinks it is, not as good as the surroundings deserve, and not as good as it should be for the money.

Watch out for the slightly suspicious picture on the sign outside. What 'is' the dog doing to that bear?