To be fair the Coastguard Service does have good reason for locating its stations in places where they could indeed guard the coast, but the view from the Old Coastguard across Mounts Bay really is something else. Surrounded by sub-tropical gardens that lead down to the sea, the restaurant was described in The Times as "one of ten top waterside eateries".

Within a panoramic dining room a mainly maritime a la carte menu that makes the most of the local produce offers asparagus, lime and garden herb soup, lobster bisque with fresh mussels and seared red mullet, or fresh lobster with a samphire and fine bean salad amongst the starters. Roasted hake fillet with saffron rice and pan-fried banana has a roasted red pepper, chive and Parmesan butter to diffuse the flavours, and for real fish lovers there is a medley of Cornish fish with gurnard, lemon sole, haddock, monkfish and mackerel accompanied by a panzanella salad.

Pan-fried fillet steak is served with roast plum tomatoes, crushed new potatoes with chorizo and oregano and a red wine jus. Of one thing you can be sure, if what they want is made or grown locally they will not have missed the opportunity to incorporate it into the menu. Their crab sandwiches are legendary.

Well kept local ales are available along with the customary range of lagers and bottled beers, and a decent wine list.