I assume I am correct in saying that this is about as close as you can get to the Mediterranean whilst in England without falling off the edge. Be that as it may, taste the cuisine at the Summer House and you are in no doubt at all. A delightful converted Regency house, fifty metres from the sea, with a tropical walled garden, the whole ambience speaks of warm leisure.

The restaurant is encircled with the sort of awards that pursue Chef/Patron Ciro Zaino wherever he goes as he practises his dedication towards simple foods and fresh ingredients. A short menu changes frequently dependent upon what the markets have to offer.

A medallion of honey duck with marinated peppers, or a mousseline of sole and crab with basil sets the pace, followed by a fillet of brill with a twist of ginger and a hint of Pernod. The rack of lamb, served pink with a mustard and herbs crust is a speciality of the house, though it does seem a wasted opportunity not to indulge in the fish dishes such as the typical lightly cooked scallops served with samphire. For pudding many will head straight for the Normandy-style thin apple tart, glazed and served with crème chantilly and a frisson of calvados.

A three-course meal will cost a very sensible £31.50, including cover charge and VAT, plus a 10% tip. The 40-strong wine list contains some very interesting new-wave Italian grown numbers, including the house wines at £14.