Described by Zoe Williams in The Sunday Telegraph as a "soft, timeless country-kitchen bubble" The Swan bears a striking resemblance to other establishments of its kind in the 'royal county', where the creation of good food in rustic, even slightly louche surroundings is a well developed art form. Any variation between them tends to be centred rounded the food which, though almost invariably in the top range does have its strengths.

Here at The Swan the tucker is undeniably good. This may or may not be associated with the advent of Bob Parkinson from London's Bibendum, either way the results are there for all to see, which they frequently try to do, so advance booking is strongly recommended. They are pretty precise about exact timing too.

Look for duck breast, beetroot and soft-boiled egg, grilled foccacia with creamed goat's cheese, courgettes, mint and roast tomato, breast of chicken with mashed potato and petit pois à la Française, followed by bread and butter pudding.

The buzz is of the variety that is comfortable, relaxing even. No wonder they are besieged.