The Swan brings a level of comfort in style to Hay on Wye which, as the town expands in its role of the biggest second hand bookshop in the world, is particularly welcome.

The Cygnet Restaurant is the place to be and with a wide and varied menu from which to choose you'll need to concentrate. For a starter choices could be from a salmon mousse wrapped in smoked salmon and dressed with lemon and cucumber, the Japanese style calamari in tempura batter with a Teriyaki dip or a leek and Cheddar soufflé with straw potatoes and salad.

Mains are equally diverse and could include a baked red gurnard served with sautéed red pepper and a fresh herb and lemon sauce, or roast rack of Welsh lamb with a herb crust aboard a redcurrant, garlic and summer mint sauce. Forget not the panfried ostrich steak served with game chips and served with a Burgundy and mushroom jus.

Service is efficient and friendly. There is no way that an hotel restaurant fielding this sort of menu is going to let itself down on the wine list and you will find a varied and rewarding array of wine awaiting your judgement.