Restaurant at The Victoria at Holkham

Country Living Magazine for January 2002 describes the Victoria as "A little bit of West London without the attitude . . . " a very perceptive and accurate observation. So close to Holkham Hall that you'd think it was almost part of it - and in terms of ownership you'd be right - the whole place has a delightfully louche and luxurious feel. Much of this is due to the widespread use of dark, well-polished wood offset by a colourful array of Indian draperies of one form and another.

Neil Dowson, inspirational Head Chef, will tell you that the aim at Victoria "is to produce a menu that carefully balances classical and innovative cooking" and his customers will tell you that he succeeds. Local produce features strongly with mussels from Brancaster and venison, game, beef and eels from the Holkham Estate never far from the menu. For starters choose from eggs Benedict, Thornham mussels with Thai spices or a warm crab linguine with spring onion, chilli and lime vinaigrette. All starters can be taken as main courses.

For those who feel uneasy if separated too long from their eastern influences there is Viceroy's curry, and the Holkham venison burger gives a new dimension to that much abused dish. The slow-braised pork belly is delicious, with savoy cabbage and apple puree alongside. The wild duck is as different again from the domestic variety which, however hard you try, can never offer that same taste and texture as the real thing, nor is game served out of season, so rest assured it has never seen the inside of a freezer.

Of the grossly unfair temptations amongst the puddings I will mention but one. It's the hot chocolate fondant with griottine cherries and pistachio ice cream, and for once words fail me - but sublime will do. If I say that the food at Victoria needs to be best enjoyed in tandem with the rest of the hotel please do not regard that as commanding - it's just that the whole experience draws upon each part, you must make the choice.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt