Restaurant at The Wensleydale Heifer

The Heifer lays claim to being the first boutique hotel in the Yorkshire Dales, and I am not aware of any competition to that title. They seem to have done this without losing any of the admirable robustness for which that county is renowned. They have also made seafood a prime item on the menu.

As The Times said on 30 June 2007, "reel in a prize catch with Whitby cod, crackling Black Sheep batter, fat chips and posh peas which is the best fish supper you'll eat all year, in or out of a newspaper."

The whole of the ground floor of this former 17th century coaching inn has been transformed, offering sturdy log fires in the spacious lounge. Should you decide to stay the bedrooms will measure up well to modern standards, and breakfast is a feast for the senses.

In the Whisky lounge club room, apart from the obvious, expect to find soft leather furnishings, log fire in season, and a browse through the Dailys. The à la carte menu offers ten starters, amongst which ignore at your peril their magnificent fish soup, chilli salt squid or the speciality platter for two, fish with a touch of cheese, and incredibly good value.

Around twelve main courses list two meat, the remainder fresh from the not far distant sea, as in Thai coconut fish curry with halibut, salmon and tiger prawns, or salmon fillet with lobster and crab, served with crushed new potatoes, buttered spinach and herb cream.

If it's summer think very carefully before missing the opportunity of their simply gorgeous summer beery Eton Mess 'Knickerbocker Glory', unless it should be for the hot dark or white Valrona chocolate fondue, for two.

The wine list is a happy hunting ground for the connoisseur, with a sensible selection by the glass.