A favourite watering hole in the ancient town of Coggeshall, renowned for its Great Barn, The White Hart has a reputation for doing things properly, be it a wedding, banquet or just morning coffee.

The modern European menu is sufficiently flexible and relies on fresh local produce and such dishes as Colchester oysters on a bed of rock salt and lamb with apple mint mash, pancetta wrapped beans and jus vinaigrette may have a European influence but retain their integrity well. For desserts, chocolate tart with pistachio mascarpone and steamed treacle pudding with cinnamon and clotted cream may impress.

A well-connected wine list draws heavily on Italy and there is a wonderful selection by the glass. The really interesting feature of the whole place is how Italian cooking and hotel management can slot in so comfortably with English antiquity and tradition within a service situation, to provide a first class service.