Restaurant at The White Horse

Anyone who knows Brancaster can bear witness to its marsh-edged location, with the buzz of activity that goes with the cycle of the tides and the comings and goings of numerous small craft. Other serious activity occurs at the White Horse which looks out over stunning scenery from a choice of conservatory, bar or sun-deck.

As you enter, to your left is a bar that is clearly shared by locals and restaurant guests, though if it came to it my money would be on the locals. There is more than a hint of gastropub about the presentation of the place, yet the reality seems to be aimed, with a degree of success, higher up the scale.

The menu homes in justifiably on the wonderful range of local seafood, including mussels, crab and samphire to name but a few. The smoked mackerel starter, for instance, was superb with just a hint of crispness. Sea trout on a bed of petit broad beans was well presented and an interesting blend of flavours, though the pressures of a second sitting appeared to result in new potatoes al dente. A Caesar salad was made with fresh anchovies and a soft boiled local egg that placed it in a class of its own. Both of us felt that portions could have benefited from a somewhat more generous approach, particularly bearing in mind these parts of Norfolk breed appetites that are not lightly satisfied.

The staff were bright, co-ordinated and bore the hallmark of training. Greene King Abbot, Adnam's Regatta and IPA are all on draught and there is a good wine list too.

Even if the food was indifferent, which it most certainly is not, my guess is people would go there just for the view. Throughout our two hours at a ringside table we watched a spectacular Norfolk sunset over a very high declining tide through all its galaxy of stages. Cliff Nye deserves generous praise for re-creating this former pub, now restaurant with rooms to remember - yes, they enjoy the same views - into what is fast becoming a respected and sought after Norfolk landmark.