Wales is full of surprises when it comes to eating out, and most of them are nice ones. Wynnstay certainly comes into that category, with a sheaf of recommendations. Chef Gareth Johns does a first class job on sourcing his materials, much of which is Welsh and local, like game - partridge, pheasant, wild lake and river fish - trout and salmon, sea fish - wild bass, turbot, etc. Menus change daily and include such dishes as Penrhyn mussels with leeks and white Welsh wine.

An excellent main course is the moist salmon wrapped in Carmarthen ham served with saffron-scented risotto, encircled by a rivulet of butter and fish-stock sauce. Probably their most renowned dessert is a ring of sweet, fresh macerated roast pineapple in a caramel sauce flecked with rough-ground black pepper. Service is friendly and paced. The wine list starts at £13.95, and offers a very interesting choice from all over the world but specialises in Italian wines, with probably the best Italian selection outside London, but not at London prices!