Restaurant at Washbourne Court Hotel

If there is one quality that English country hotels excel in, it must surely be tranquillity. Perhaps this is nowhere more evident than in the Cotswolds, that mellow-stoned tract of countryside that stretches across middle England, peppered with beautiful houses like Washbourne Court, close to the River Eyre and in the centre of the oddly-named Lower Slaughter.

When I read of a hotel that glosses over its dining arrangements and bangs on about trouser presses and other pieces of kit, which go largely un-used, well certainly by me, my heart sinks. But when it is immediately clear that another hotel has at its heart the gastronomic welfare of its clients my spirits rise as I reach for the phone. Let us suppose it's summer, and drinks are served on the riverside terrace. It's a special occasion and a half bottle of Bollinger seems in order. By the time we are conducted into the mullion-windowed 400 year old dining room we have ordered the Jerusalem artichoke soup, with a carrot and cardamom puree and the tortellini of crab with a vegetable stir fry. Mains are plentiful and served with élan. A fillet of beef with seared foie gras, wild mushroom puff pastry ravioli, parsnip fondant and red wine sauce sits well alongside the pan-fried red mullet, served with a tian of Nicoise vegetables, tomato and basil couscous and olive dressing. The pace of service is measured and unhurried, so it seems some while before we settle for a pineapple tart tatin with coconut and rum ice cream and a honey crème caramel with marinated raisins.

The wine list is a work of art clearly compiled by somebody who cares passionately about their wine, but also has some thought for the pockets of their clients with a good range around the £20 mark. Bearing in mind the quality now emerging from Argentina a bottle of Bianchi Malbec from Mendoza reinforces the wisdom of our choice. A selection by the glass from £3.75 gives ample recompense for those unable for whatever reason to cope with more.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt