A very smart country house hotel, for the exceptionally well-heeled, a place where the less pleasing elements of society are left behind and damage to peace of mind can be gently soothed away. As ever, no small part of the process is contained within the dining room, or, if you prefer, the Brasserie, Le Mazot. In charge of operations is Head Chef Martin Burge, formerly of L'Ortolan, Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and Pied a Terre. Whilst the cuisine majors on French cooking it is not above a touch of digression here and there, with pleasing results.

Whilst I am never quite convinced about the merits of a dived scallop as opposed to one that has been captured by other means, there is a pleasant feeling of personal service and association with the hand that catches, so yes, let's go for the thinly sliced hand-dived scallops, topped with a poached oyster and champagne veloute. Should that not tempt there's always the whole quail, far from its home in Anjou, roasted and served with its leg confit and rolled with foie gras garnished with white grapes and leaves in season, bound with a walnut dressing. Loin of lamb makes a welcome appearance, topped with sweetbreads and roasted with curried spices served with courgette flowers and pea shoots, but if the sea still calls consider the Cornish red mullet, panfried and accompanied by more of the scallops, but roasted this time and accompanied by a fricassee of squid and cherry tomatoes, not to mention a light bouillabaisse.

And talking of the personal touch there can be few things more so than a souffle, with its split second timing, so the hot souffle it is with pistachio and chocolate and accompanied by its own sorbet and ice creams. Close into second place comes the passion fruit and pineapple, made into raviolis and served with a coconut froth.

Given that the whole emphasis of Whatley is hedonistic one could hardly wish for more except to reassure that the wine list is in keeping with the rest of the Manor's concern for the welfare of those who want nothing but the best and have the means. The award of a Michelin Star in 2005 is well justified.

No children under 12 years.