Woodlands is a charming Victorian house, only a few minutes from junction 22 of M5 and therefore a worthy place of refuge from the dubious delights of our less-than-beloved motorway catering facilities. Hotel residents, of whom there appears to be a steady supply, have preference so if dropping in for a meal only be sure to make a reservation.

A home-made artichoke and sorrel soup or a warm salad of duck confit make good starters, though I was intrigued by the chick pea fritters on a bed of home-made plum chutney. Fish is a speciality and as ever is dependent upon what the boats bring in but a typical offering might well be a fillet of John Dory on a mille feuille of smoked salmon and crab with a bouillabaisse sauce.

The noisettes of lamb come oven-roasted with pesto and served on a sweet pepper and garlic salsa. Rum and banana pancakes are served with vanilla bean ice cream and cheese is taken here with all the seriousness it deserves. House wines kick off at £9.95 and there is a well-mannered list that embraces most of the globe.