Nathan Outlaw is in danger of being dubbed as the wandering boy of Cornwall. But if he was it would be out of affection and admiration for his cooking skills that earned him a very rapid Michelin at Black Pig and St Evan, and now transferred to a new scenic setting at Fowey.

The new menu is business-like and convincingly brief. Maximum use is being made of the superbly fresh produce available in this sea-locked peninsula, with five dishes to each course, starting with cured salmon, marinated beetroot, horseradish and dill, a new take on an old Outlaw favourite, or whisky-soaked salmon and a beetroot risotto.

Indeed progress through the menu suggests that Nathan is going through a pickling period with a main course of sea bass, pickled fennel and vanilla gnocchi, though my money would go on the mutton served with garlic potato, rosemary and anchovy. Mutton in general is one of the most under rated meats on offer in this country, though this dish would not ignore lamb in season.

A rhubarb sponge with stem ginger ice cream here is a wonderful experience, and pickles gain another entry with the walnuts that accompany the artisan cheeses and raisin bread.

It is abundantly clear that the sheer genius of the man has been not one wit impaired by his travels - quite the reverse - and we wish 28-year-old Nathan and his team a long and productive stay at their new home.