Revells

Welshpool, a Borders town just on the Welsh side, is, as you can imagine, not exactly at the hub of the universe, so any excitement is generally well received, with Revells as no exception. Using a good combination of natural materials, an imaginative programme of musical events and a few other specialities they are intent on giving the surrounding inhabitants a reason to enjoy even more this pleasantly quaint old market town.

Located in Berriew Street, they have cleverly divided the premises into areas aimed at particular groups, times of the day, and occasions, as well as going into the deli business where every day except Sunday, between 10am-4pm a wonderful array of local delicacies such as Shropshire cured meats, Welsh cheeses, speciality jams and chutneys and Fair Trade Chocolate, plus a whole lot more all vie for attention. This of course is a good marketing ploy and deserves all the attention it receives, as befits a place that spreads the intake of specialist items well beyond customary boundaries with a personal touch.

A well equipped café bar operates daily except Sundays, starting with brunch from 10am where for a very modest sum a traditional English breakfast is all yours. Croques Madame and Monsieur, bacon and egg bagels are all waiting attention, down to the humble pancake in three choices. Lunch time carries homemade lasgana, quiche and soup of the day, pastas, paninis, baguettes and croissants proliferate, and the local Llandysil bread is a real joy.

The restaurant follows a more leisurely course where there is time for conversation, a little dalliance perhaps or a good boisterous gathering of friends. Starters of grilled black pudding with tomato chutney and sour cream, a deli platter, goat's cheese and French toast and Chef's chicken liver pate are amongst the ten or so on offer before casting a quick eye over the pasta menu, a little piece of Italy tucked away in this scenic piece of England.

Four or so fish dishes take their cue from time and tide. It says much about the growth of interest in good food and its availability that you can order up a char-grilled swordfish steak or baked fillet of Cornish hake deep in rural Britain without so much as a second thought. Char grilled Welsh Black beef steaks are now renowned throughout the world and an 8oz fillet here at Revells is one of life's special moments.

Sunday lunch is a celebration of good living, with choices of lamb, turkey or Welsh Black, and a pasta bake for some. Children get very special treatment, and not surprisingly clamour to come again.

Life in the business of successfully providing decent food to people at the point of consumption has always been very much a matter of attitude. Whilst it used to be possible for a restaurateur to take liberties with that proposition it's a brave one that does it now, and somewhere like Revells demonstrates clearly where its priorities are, with the result that it's admired - and patronised in the best possible way. Make it a double whammy and go to revel at Revells on one of their regular music nights.

Keep abreast of events at Revells by a click on their Website for dates, menu changes, Thursday new style brasserie evenings for family dining and details of group bookings.