Riverside Restaurant, The

The mere act of turning up at the Riverside at West Bay with its stunning views of the river and the sea, sends you into fishy mode. Nor will you be disappointed. Emphasis is on simplicity in almost every sense, food, cooking, décor, the lot. Those who, for whatever reason, cannot rise to the fish are not only tolerated but provided for with the same expertise and care that goes into the restaurant's forte.

The Riverside has its genesis in a tent that regularly used to sprout up on the site in early summer early last century, in which some aspiring local entrepreneur was wont to refresh visitors and locals with tea and cakes. Inevitably wooden huts took over, then a Post Office and finally increasing occasions when the whole area flooded during the 60s and 70s. This was no good to anybody so the present owners rebuilt the whole area in such a way that you didn't have to pack a lifejacket when you set out to dine.

Food from the sea has always been paramount and starters could offer mussels steamed Thai style with coconut milk, coriander, lemon and olive oil, or devilled sprats with a salsa verde mayonnaise. Fresh langoustines served cold with homemade mayonnaise can also be grilled and served with garlic and herb butter.

A good mix of locals and 'foreigners' is always a healthy sign and there's no lack of both as they work their way through risotto, sea bass with chilli and ginger and gooseberry crème brulee. While the scallop and bacon salad takes some beating, but then you are up against lobster ravioli, never mind the Abbotsbury oysters, prepared as they should be with minimum mucking about.

Dover sole is good almost anywhere, but here at Lyme Bay it has a freshness about it that seems unique, grilled simply on the bone with sea salt and lemon. The oven roasted gilt-head bream is stuffed with lemon grass, lime leaves, ginger and chilli, but my money is on the half a local lobster salad with some more that mayonnaise, or grilled with garlic and herb butter.

Riverside is fortunate indeed to have in the puddings department pastry Chef Amy Moss, who daily engages in a contest with the other chefs to see who can raise the most applause from the diners, some of whom are rumoured to travel serious distances to sample the compelling results of her talents. Think chocolate mocha crème brûlée with soft dough chocolate cookies, or pineapple carpaccio with ginger and lime Branita and ginger snaps.

A wine list of over 100 bins gallops round the world and favours the fish, needless to say, but not exclusively. This is without doubt one the finest fish restaurants in the South West, a sentiment echoed by a local well known celebrity chef who also enjoys a rivered location.

Check on their Website for changes - they are a restless lot as befits those who strive for the best, so menus change, and their list of Awards might redouble your efforts to make an early booking. Watch out for the fact that they generally close from early December to the middle of February every year.