This extraordinarily English institution is a real haven for those looking for excessively good value for money coupled with thoroughly good cooking. The setting is Arnold Circus in London's East End, a former school of handsome proportions and architecture, now transformed into a studio for artistic types, many of whom welcome the presence in the former games room of Arnold and Henderson's kitchen, alias Nose to Tail Eating.

The skills that made The French House Dining Room in Soho such a wonderful place to hang out are immediately apparent.

Others who wish to join in this very informal BYO eating house have only to ring the bell labelled Canteen between 11am and 3pm on any weekday to gain admission to a quality lunch which is unlikely to cost you any more than around £20. The total unpredictability of what is likely to be on the menu makes for a lot of fun, but steamed mussels and clams and oxtail stew with swede and leek tart, or guinea fowl with roast potatoes are not unknown. Whatever it is you can rest assured it will be good, the company is as unpredictable as the menu, the wine as good as you care to take.