Rogano is a wonderful survival from the days when the Cunard Line steamed in and out of Glasgow, Art Deco was at its peak and time was made for things that mattered, like dining out. The food is, of course, the highlight, but the outstanding decor, the crisp linen, sparkling glasses and gleaming cutlery all contribute to what is undeniably one of life's little experiences. In the restaurant on the ground floor choose between the rabbit and prune terrine with Sauterne jelly, a medley of smoked seafood with Avruga caviar or half a dozen chilled natural oysters on the half shell or rockefeller.

Amidst a 'ahem, sea of fish the odd oasis of carnivorous activity is fleetingly seen - let's not go there. Instead consider the grilled lobster served with Bearnaise sauce, or lobster Thermidor, before being further distracted by the roast halibut with pea puree and deep fried oyster. The famed Rogano dark chocolate pot with white chocolate shavings is remembered with affection by all who embrace its Negroid charms, whilst for those of a gentler disposition the iced lemon mascarpone parfait with raspberry syrup and praline offers the ideal solution. Somewhat understandably the wine list focuses on the whites, and French at that.