Room - Glasgow

How are the mighty fallen! One Devonshire Gardens, formerly home to Gordon Ramsay's restaurant, has re-emerged, but this time as a light hearted presentation of the food we enjoyed in 1970. So expect to find prawn cocktail, complete with diced apple, avocado and crème fraiche, or a tempura of king prawns on lettuce with Marie Rose sauce, lemon mayonnaise and a confit tomato, or chicken pot noodle. Then there's the crispy duck, still a favourite, or lamb goulash. Nor are there any prizes for fingering black forest gateau as the pudding of the year.

Now people may raise an eyebrow, sniff even, but the fact is that there was nothing wrong with this kind of food at the time, and to judge by the success of a similar project by the same company in Leeds, there is certainly nothing wrong with it now. G. Ramsay may, or may not be doing a cringe but frankly, does anyone care? If Room Glasgow believe that simple yet funky décor, lively background music, creative cocktails, a good value wine list and great tasting food reflects the Glasgow style just as well as Leeds, and anticipate another runaway success, good luck to them!