Those familiar with the Max and Susan Fischer team at nearby Baslow Hall may find it slightly surprising that they have re-emerged at Rowley's, until you stop to think about it. Not everyone can afford to eat at the Hall and collectively they represent a niche market which the Fischers have now added to their collection, with the same degree of expertise and enthusiasm employed elsewhere.

Their chef at the Hall, Rupert Rowley, is a partner in the team behind Rowley's, with local produce and ingredients very much on his mind. Their restaurant is spread across four floors, and that includes the kitchen on the first floor. Both traditional and hybrid dishes are offered, expect to see hot smoked salmon bith baby capers, quails'eggs and fine beans, pan-fried loin of venison with bubble and squeak cake, roast chestnuts, Brussel sprouts and game pepper sauce, or roast halibut steak, king prawn and crab tortellini, with oriental vegetables, coconut and candied chilli. Dessert might yield twice-baked banana soufflé with toffee ice cream.

On Sundays the feast of Sunday Lunch is celebrated with roast rib of Derbyshire beef and Yorkshire pudding, or fillet of salmon with tomato and chorizo fondue. For those whose tastes are rather less exotic at any time, a pie with a pint or two of Thornbridge's real cask ales will prove perfectly satisfying.

Prices have been held down well and a sensible wine list follows suit, with plenty of good choices across the board.