In 1867 Norman Shaw designed the refreshment rooms at the Royal Academy and very modish they must have seemed. In 1990, and not a moment too soon, Theo. Cosby had a crack at bringing them up to date, which took the heat off. Now MUMA have taken things a stage further with a more modern approach that retains the best of the original design.

The food here, like many similar places, has had its ups and downs, but now seems to be of a standard that reflects the quality of the new look. Important to remember, too, that this is a service operation as part of a larger objective, not normally an end in itself. The lunchtime menu changes daily and takes its cue from the seasons. Salads and hot dishes like grilled chicken are regulars.

But the restaurant comes into its own on Friday evenings when service comes to the tables, the lights change the mood and the menu becomes more elaborate. A meal could consist of smoked salmon with apple and fennel salad, followed by fillet of peppered red mullet with roast citrus salad and sweet herb dressing, concluded with a dessert that draws its ingredients from the season.

Also have fun matching up a dish to go with the current Exhibition and see if it coincides with the chef's ideas on the day you go. Prices are reasonable, with lunch from £7.30 and a three-course dinner at £21.95 (December 2004).