They have been long renowned for the freshest and best dim sum in London, displaying a delicacy of touch and flavour that sets them apart from those offered elsewhere, however, inconveniently, they are only served at lunchtime.

They both also provide incomparably fine Chinese food at all times, varying from quite normal, mild dishes, to the firiest of Szechuan cooking. Their customers describe them as 'making other Chinese restaurants pale into insignificance', and as quite the most genuine outside of Hong Kong.

You must try to disregard the extremely garish décor, as the whole experience will prove to be surprisingly reasonable on the pocket as well.

It is an especially good place to go with a party of friends, as the Royal China offers a choice of Set Price Menus. Ranging from their House or Vegetarian, up to the Seafood Gourmet at £32, which may sound a lot, but it includes lobster and fantastic imperial seafood hors d'oeuvres. Plus there is no way that you will feel hungry afterwards!

They are also extremely unusual in offering a Vegetarian set meal with delights like Szechuan tofu, and asparagus "Peking style".

12.5 per cent service charge is added to the bills, but you must make sure that the credit card slip is filled in, as they have an infuriating habit of leaving it open.

Richard Bradford

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