Royal Oak, The

In the great pub evolution there have, as always, been winners and losers. The weak have gone to the wall, the strong have survived, and the newcomers have lead the renaissance. The emergence of modest groupings of revitalised pubs has brought some real stars, of which The Royal Oak is undoubtedly one.

The advantages of an historic building have been skilfully combined with new ideas, modern management with heart, and an adherence to being British that borders on patriotism. Character and atmosphere is there in abundance, and you will dine in a rosy red room with glowing dark floorboards.

Only 15 minutes from the M4 and the M40, and 3 from the centre of Marlow (great shopping for the m'sahib) The Royal Oak is rural enough to have the red kites, reintroduced to the Chilterns in 1989, doing an aerial display over the pub. Once inside the warmth of an egalitarian clientele, and friendly staff can lead to a steady and insidious relaxation.

Head Chef Ed Frost presides over a talented team which monitors on what they call a 'British Colonial' style. This involves emphasis on the products of the local fields and hedgerows, an art that over the years we have mislaid, to our own disadvantage. Starters of small plates look to devilled lamb's kidneys on eggy bread brioche with crispy pancetta, bubble and squeak with oak smoked bacon, poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, or crispy salt and pepper baby squid on saffron soused vegetables with chilli and honey yoghurt.

Many dishes are subject to season and in winter look out for Little Marlow pheasant, chestnut and spinach Wellington with damson compote. At any time that grand dish, the classic fish pie should not be ignored, served here with buttered chantenay carrots. The eponymous brie and sage chicken Kiev on mushroom linguine carbonara combines flavours that were surely grown or bred in some celestial place, though for those who like their pleasures at the table simple there are Stockings Farm pork and leek sausages on mash with red wine gravy and onion rings.

Amongst an inspired presentation of vegetables look for ginger glazed chantenay carrots, sticky balsamic braised red cabbage and purple sprouting with toasted almond Hollandaise, to name but a few. Puddings present a star-studded raft of choices, starting with the classic treacle tart with clotted cream, some stunning home made sorbets (lemon and lime, plum and pumpkin for instance), or chocolate brioche doughnuts with toffee milkshake. I won't go on about the British cheese plate, but do leave some space . . . . . .

But I will go on about the fairly short but quite outstanding wine list which does the business in that direction with consummate skill. There is a good by-the-glass selection and addicts of pudding wine will find themselves in some sort of plummy heaven. Prices are a gift from the gods too.

Their excellent and friendly Website will introduce to further points of virtue about The Royal Oak, together with more information on such matters as changing menus.