In the great pub evolution there have, as always, been winners and losers. The weak have gone to the wall, the strong have survived, and the newcomers have led the renaissance. The emergence of modest groupings of revitalised pubs has brought some real stars, of which The Royal Oak is undoubtedly one, a verdict supported by the award of Dining Pub of the Year in the Good Pub Guide for 2011.

The advantages of an historic building have been skilfully combined with new ideas, modern management with heart, and an adherence to being British that borders on patriotism. Character and atmosphere is there in abundance, and you will dine in a rosy red room with glowing dark floorboards.
 
Only 15 minutes from the M4 and the M40, and 3 from the centre of Marlow (great shopping for the m'sahib) The Royal Oak is rural enough to have the red kites, reintroduced to the Chilterns in 1989, doing an aerial display over the pub. Once inside, the warmth of an egalitarian clientele, and friendly staff can lead to a steady and insidious relaxation.

Head Chef Ed Frost presides over a talented team which monitors on what they call a 'British Colonial' style. This involves emphasis on the products of the local fields and hedgerows, an art that over the years we have mislaid, to our own disadvantage. Starters of small plates look to seared Scottish salmon and horseradish blinis with rocket and beetroot salad cream; bubble and squeak with oak smoked bacon, free range poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, or Dorset brown crab mayonnaise on toasted ciabatta.

Many dishes are subject to season and in summer look out for grilled Cornish mackerel fillets with warm marinated feta, broad bean and new potato salad and harissa yoghurt. At any time that grand dish, the char-grilled aged English steak should not be ignored, served here with blue cheese Caesar butter and skinny chips. The eponymous pan-roast Barbary duck breast with confit potato, caramelised red onion tarte tatin and broccoli purée combines flavours that were surely grown or bred in some celestial place, though for those who like their pleasures at the table simple there is whole Cornish sole with buttered marsh samphire, sautéed new potatoes and sauce vierge.

Amongst an inspired presentation of vegetables look for open field mushroom and spinach lasagne with garden herb sabayon, pickled walnuts and truffle oil, to name but a few. Puddings present a star-studded raft of choices, starting with the baked dark chocolate soup with chocolate crackles and tiramisu ice cream, some stunning home made sorbets (mango, elderflower and strawberry for instance), or passion fruit delice with caramelised pineapple and coconut candy. I won't go on about the British cheese plate, but do leave some space . . . . . .

But I will go on about the fairly short but quite outstanding wine list which does the business in that direction with consummate skill. There is a good by-the-glass selection and addicts of pudding wine will find themselves in some sort of plummy heaven. Prices are a gift from the gods too.

Their excellent and friendly Website will introduce to further points of virtue about The Royal Oak, together with more information on such matters as changing menus.