In the year Napoleon opened his campaign in Egypt, 1798, Thomas Rule promised his despairing family that he would say goodbye to his wayward past and finally settle down.

No sooner said than he opened an oyster bar in Covent Garden. To the surprise and disbelief of his family, this enterprise proved to be not only successful, but lasting.

Contemporary writers were soon singing the praises of Rules' "porter, pies and oysters", and remarking on the "rakes, dandies and superior intelligences, who comprise its clientele".

Amazingly, it has only ever been owned by three families. Once as faded and reminiscent of past eminence as the former British Empire, Rules has undergone a renaissance in the last few years under its latest proprietor, John Mayhew, whilst the kitchen is in the very experienced hands of top chef David Chambers.

Famous for its game, most of which comes from John Mayhew's estate in Northern England, Rules also shows a mastery of other English dishes, both traditional and modern.

Rules demonstrated its continued mastery of the genre when it featured in the Tio Pepe Carlton London Restaurant Awards.

It clearly demonstrates that an institution can change with the times, and still retain its former glories and comfort. Wines include those from the former colonies, which turn out to be American!