Saffrani

If at first you don't succeed - and you may well not, in trying to find Saffrani - do not give up. The rewards of a little persistence are well worthwhile. This new Indian, tucked away in one of Edinburgh's tiny side streets, between the Festival Theatre and Old College is breaking the mould, no flock wallpaper, no tinkling fountains, just 30 seats and a real desire to introduce new flavours, new dishes, new aspects of North Indian food.

Owned by Khalil Mansoori, formerly of Ann Purna and Shamiana, the auguries are good, particularly as he is concentrating on seafood. Not prawns, prawns and King prawns but cod, halibut and lemon sole, blended with the most wonderful spices. The lamb kidney in a gurdah massala or okra is notable and when it comes to pudding times the usual suspects are refreshingly absent, replaced by rasmalai, balls of cottage cheese served chilled in sweet milk and nuts.

The wine list recognises that cuisine of this quality deserves something rather more elegant than the obligatory lager, even if it is brewed under licence from Bombay, and should not be lightly ignored.