If the rascally Sheriff of Nottingham was still around he would surely relish the sweeping views of his fiefdom afforded by Saltwater, perched on top of the Warner cinema complex, with outside eating as an option in summer. The food, though modern British, suffers nothing in the transition from more traditional fare, and the facility to create your own dishes is a novel approach, especially as the results will served on the square plates in use throughout the restaurant. The chargrill approach reigns supreme here, though not to the exclusion of all else. A hot and sour chicken soup with coriander and shitake mushrooms sets the scene and the fish soup, which stops short of being a chowder is blessed with chilli aioli and gruyere cheese. The Caesar salad is has roasted garlic as an important feature and a caramelised five onion tart comes with Stilton from down the road a bit, and asparagus butter.

A consideration which may make you think very seriously in favour of the chargrill is their policy of hanging all red meat on the bone for not less than 28 days. As a result the steaks are memorable. The chargrilled fillet of red snapper, and black tiger tail prawns are but two of the fish dishes, well supplemented by the fish of the day as nature and the market dictates. My eye, and appetite was drawn to a great favourite, the Louisiana jambalaya, made with chicken and chorizo as its two main ingredients. Puddings maintain the eclectic approach with sunburnt lemon tart and a passion fruit coulis and the

chocolate pudding, served warm with Macadamia nut and caramel ice cream.

The wine list has benefited from a major overhaul, with wine by the glass or bottles from £12. many above the £20 mark.

No children under after 7pm.