The Stradey Park Hotel is an Edwardian mansion in Furnace, on the outskirts of Llanelli, overlooking Carmarthen Bay and the Gower Peninsula; located on a wooded hillside, it manages to capture all that is scenically best about this spectacularly beautiful part of Wales. It cannot be said often enough that at the heart of a good hotel is a restaurant that panders to the inner man, and Samphires with its modern take on Welsh cuisine is no exception.

It is named after the vibrant green plant that grows in many tidal estuaries, it has a salty and succulent texture which is frequently cooked briefly in butter, but responds so well to a little gentle steaming.

The blend of contemporary and traditional makes for a memorable stay in this large, independent hotel where the service is local and friendly. The comfortable accommodation ranges from twin rooms to The Stradey Suite and all points between. Eighty two rooms means that there is something to suit everybody and each room has been individually styled with contemporary en-suite facilities that include wireless internet access, telephone and fax facilities. A full Welsh breakfast is served in the picturesque Samphires restaurant.

Guests also have access to the rooftop lounge, needless to say the highest point of the hotel, with incredible views across sea and coast. Conspicuously art deco, the lounge is sensitively lit, has a gleaming black piano and makes an idea hideaway for complete relaxation, a quiet drink or an exclusive party.

In a location such as this it must be a great temptation to monitor on the fruits of the omnipresent sea which is such a wonderful part of the hotel but however much this might suit some guests a wider approach has to be, and is, considered. Cockle and laver bread fishcake topped with a fried quails egg on crispy bacon and mushroom salad, to offer a fine prelude to such dishes as apple wood smoked pollock on grain mustard mash and Gorwydd Caerphilly cheese sauce. Vegetarians are well looked after and leek and walnut strudel is served on cottage cheese and sweet potato mash with a ratatouille compote. Tradition is well served with pan fried medallions of beef with an oxtail croquette, winter root vegetables and a garlic and thyme jus.

Breakfast is clearly designed to equip guests for a healthy day out in the surrounding countryside, and whilst more restrained options are available the temptation of a full Welsh, complete with the uniquely Welsh laver bread, is one that many may be in no hurry to resist. Quite apart from anything else the Welsh have a way with sausages that is beguiling.

The area may be blessedly devoid of industrial or business communities, but lunch is still strongly featured and a three course meal offers exceptional value. Welsh rarebit and smoked chicken bruschetta with homemade piccalilli, or breast of chicken wrapped in cabbage and bacon on a casserole of braised puy lentils and baby potatoes with a roasted tomato jus is followed up by treacle tart with lemon custard.

And whilst there be sure to sample the local Welsh single malt, an anathema possibly to those north of another border, but well worth more than passing attention. Samphires ticks all the boxes, is available to non residents as well as those fortunate enough to be staying. Their Website will keep you up to date; the setting is timeless.