There is something very British and traditional about the chophouse concept and it is good news to see a resurgence of their kind, albeit re-invented - in some cases - to good effect. At Sam's this takes the form of such robust building materials as timber and tiles, with plenty of brass and traditional lighting. Furthermore this is a fine place to eat when the chills of autumn, followed by the rude blasts of winter sweep through city streets and bleak fields alike, with such sturdy starters as stock house beef barley soup, onion soup and panfried lamb's kidneys.

Many main courses invoke such hearty items as Jerusalem artichokes, a wild game mixed grill, oxtail stew, homemade corned beef hash with Cheshire dry-cured bacon as an unusual ingredient, and other manly dishes, of which the roast of the day can be one of the best deals. No, this is not a place for the faint-hearted, though the puddings do offer some mild relief, with rice pudding and black cherries or a classic vanilla creme brulee. A cheese plate at £8.95 may seem expensive until the sheer diversity and scale - ample for two - is seen in perspective.