San Carlo in Liverpool demonstrates exemplary commitment to fine Italian food, good service, luxurious and comfortable surroundings, and value for money.

San Carlo Liverpool is appropriately enough located in Castle Street, a sophisticated setting in the heart of the city's business district, where the unique experience offered is appreciated to the full. A wide, open and airy dining room provides the hub, with all-white space and red and black furnishings, whilst the impressive bar and lounge area is open plan with stools strategically scattered.

A menu that follows the traditional Italian format exhibits some of the best in Italian cooking. Whoever it was said that San Carlo was the best restaurant Liverpool had ever seen made a good point which few would contradict. The deeply satisfying antipasti, that wonderful prelude to an Italian meal, contributes hugely to setting the scene for what is to come.

Mixed Italian salami and Parma ham served with artichoke and fried pecorino cheese establishes some traditional flavours of the country. For simplicity the smoked salmon with thinly chopped white shallots and capers is devastatingly effective, and by contrast the avocado diverso, avocado served with crabmeat, Marie Rose sauce, smoked trout, horseradish and sunblushed tomatoes provides a more complicated alternative.

Whatever the origin of pasta, Italy seems to have the contemporary ownership of this attractive food form and its appearance of any self-respecting Italian menu marks the transition from introduction to getting down to business. From a menu of seven options pay serious heed to the pasta alla Norma which involves aubergines, tomatoes, basil, garlic and the ever present pecorino cheese.

It's arguable whether Italian cuisine favours meat or fish; those who prefer the former point to such wonderful dishes as vitello Signor Sassi, escalopes of veal cooked in mustard seeds, cream, brandy and mushrooms, closely followed by fillet of beef medallions wrapped in Parma ham in a creamy truffle sauce, or lamb cutlets in Madeira sauce with rosemary and sun dried potatoes, all of course on the menu at San Carlo.

With a coastline of 4,712 miles, and that doesn't include Sicily it's hardly surprising that Italy also has a love affair with seafood and fish. Try the mixed shellfish Royale for sheer indulgence, or the mixed grill of fish formed from 5 different fish and shellfish. A tagliolini lobster is a special pasta dish with lobster, brandy, tomato, cream and peas and it is superb.

When you consider that we English reckon on 3 courses to a meal it is refreshing to find a cuisine where you can get away with 6 without being considered over indulgent, which brings us to the pizza, an Italian achievement which some people go through life thinking is about the only food Italians eat. It would be more accurate to say that this is probably more true of the English. A choice of 7 at San Carlo leaves plenty of room for experiment.

With a truly Italian flourish of desserts this is the setting for a memorable meal that surprisingly will not leave deep dents in your wallet. Do click on their Website for further information on this admirable pathway to authentic Italian food.