Sanctuary, The

A pleasant addition to the world of eating out in Taunton, with a nice blend of tradition and modernity, well supported by a lively approach to matters of cuisine.

The big news here is the fish menu, with ample supplies of the fresh West Country waters variety to hand. But there are plenty of options, and starters could include Stilton fritters with tomato and basil concasse, delightful potted crab and oranges with green peppercorns, or a white leek and Somerset Blue cheese tart with wilted spinach and chilli onion marmalade.

In summer, cold rare roast sirloin of beef salad with garlic potatoes turns thoughts to lazy meals out under cloudless skies of cobalt blue. In winter breast of pheasant is served with cranberries, port wine and cream. Breast of reliable local chicken is always popular and at Sanctuary arrives at table wrapped in Somerset smoked bacon with creamed leeks and rosemary.

Incredibly good value is to be found with the early supper menu, handy for after work or pre-theatre, including a pudding of rum and raisin cheesecake with chocolate cinnamon sauce. As for cheese . . . . . . . . . . well, this is Somerset.

Have you ever wondered why the concept of the wine bar manages to survive in a restless age? With its roots in companionship and a philosophical outlook, it is perhaps a welcome antidote to change, as if the quality of the wine list at Sanctuary was not sufficient in itself.

Glasses of very drinkable wine at £2.30 a pop from interesting and unusual sources ensure value for money and those with time to spare will find a list that is clearly devised by somebody who loves their wine.