For those of an Italian frame of mind when it comes to the table, Sardo Canale is attracting good reviews. Its strength seems to be centred on having the ability to be all things to all people, so consider a lunchtime foray with the young family or an evening à deux with perhaps a hint of romance in the air. It is unlikely that you will encounter leading politicians arguing over how they share the premiership around, which has to be a relief, though other well-known names occasionally provide a frisson of excitement.

Dishes have their roots firmly located in Sardinia; beware the temptation to pig out on the wide variety of antipasti, because beyond them lie wonderful dishes such as the habit-forming spaghetti alla bottarga, homemade char-grilled aromatic sausage and fillet of sea bass pan fried in Vernaccia white wine. There is the usual range of well-kept cheeses of the country and a well spoken of cappuccino mousse.

Being on the canal it is relatively easy on a warm summer's evening to imagine that this is the real thing, particularly if you sit outside round the imported olive tree, a singularly smart piece of exterior décor.