Sauterelle

D&D London now has five separate restaurants in The Royal Exchange, this one on the south mezzanine. As restaurant locations go it is pretty stunning stuff, and one must compliment the Conran empire on the locations they acquire, which generally tend to be more attractive than those they create.

Sauterelle is French for grasshopper, and whilst they do not feature on the menu - must check that - they certainly appear in the décor by way of a series of very appealing etched panels.

Head Chef is Darren Kerley, whose objective seems to be to bring a breath of simple French classicism into proceedings, and the general reaction, particularly amongst those who eat there, is that he has done this well. Expect to find roast lobster with garlic and herbs, or braised rabbit with tarragon. Such old favourites as rum baba or chocolate fondant make a welcome appearance on a menu that has its likely customers at its forefront.

The prix fixe menu is very good value, with some real comfort food on offer. Service is excellent and in general this seems to mark yet another Conran success. How many more are there room for in London?