Seahorse Seafood Bistro and Restaurant, The

Llandudno, even in its wildest moments, would not claim to be the culinary Ludlow of the Welsh seaboard, which makes it all the more refreshing when someone of the ilk of Don and Gill Hadwin materialises into the community and creates the sort of success which The Seahorse has become, only a few minutes walk from the Promenade.

Not only does the restaurant offer food of a very high standard, under their guidance a warm and friendly atmosphere has been created within which customers can relax and enjoy dishes from a cuisine that draws from across the world. Upstairs in another dining room they have created a coffee house scenario, which we shall return to later.

In the restaurant there is a wide level of expectancy as the menu responds to the seasons and what is locally available, something the Hadwins are very strong about, believing that wherever possible the immediate community should benefit from their enterprise.

Quite apart from that the local produce is of a high standard, and it more than likely that on your first visit you will recognize some of the flavours of years past; flavours that tend to be overcome all too often by modern methods of rearing and producing.

Amongst the starters which regularly feature expect to find salmon, halibut and spinach terrine on a mixed leaf salad with gazpacho dressing, Vietnamese hot and sour fresh fishcakes with chillies, ginger, lemongrass, coriander and nam pla served on a pickled cucumber salad, or smoked haddock chowder with leek, potato, cream, white wine and parsley, a favourite the world over.

Duck has become a major growth item in the menus of the Britain, no longer mainly the property of the Chinese restaurant menu, but interestingly they have clung to some of the habits they acquired there, so at The Seahorse roast barbecued duckling is served crispy skinned, with an oriental plum sauce.

It would be dereliction of duty not to savour some of the superb Welsh lamb to be found. Here it is combined with chicken and slow cooked with black pudding in rich baroque gravy of red wine, Cognac, garlic and rich stock with a traditional onion sauce.

Some restaurants have puddings, other go for desserts, but at The Seahorse they have 'hand-crafted' after dinner indulgences, all of which are made in their own kitchens. There is the traditional hot toffee pudding, served with butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream, or a delicious plum and almond tart, freshly baked and served with vanilla ice cream. Supplies of after dinner coffee are endless and chef's special homemade nibbles round the meal off in style.

The wine list has been compiled by somebody who knows their way around and whilst most bottles hover round the £20/£30 mark there are some more expensive bins at prices that will make your day. 8 House wines are very well priced and at £3.55 a large glass cannot be faulted.

In the coffee house look for tea for all tastes and on the bakery menu keep an eye open for the local delicacy, bara brith, delicious scones with jam, and large slices of fruit flapjack.

Open Bank Holidays and Sundays from mid-June till the end of September. Check on their attractive and well set-out Website for details of events, including Thai nights and Italian and French evenings, even a Great British Evening.