The Chine Hotel is part of Bournemouth's history, Victorian in origin, close associations with the theatrical profession, and determined to ensure that its bang up to date with the expectations of today's guests. Their perception that high quality food is vitally important is one that this writer would not disagree with, indeed he is not unknown to rail against hotels that do not see it that way, or worse still, having achieved a high standard omit to tell their public about it.

A pleasant cocktail bar in the best Edwardian tradition makes a good point from which to start the evening. The dining room of the hotel is magnificent, with views over the trees to the distant Isle of Wight, a room made for relaxing and enjoyment.

For a starter expect oven-baked crab tartlet with chervil, a small salad and grapefruit segments, or perhaps a ham hock terrine with vegetables and a minted pea dressing. Main courses tend to monitor on seafood with grilled fillet of red mullet a regular favourite, and roast rack of Wiltshire pork with marinated vegetables and a Devon cider sauce. Follow with profiteroles, toffee sauce and ice cream or chocolate fondants with pistachio.

Service is friendly without mateyness. Oh, yes, and the coffee is superb.